PERSPECTIVES: Life Beyond Franklin -- A Memorable Vacation Indeed

Two Weeks in a Villa in the Hills of Umbria: The Vacation of a Lifetime.

By  L.P. Benedetto, Former Franklin Chief of Police

It was the kind of vacation one might read about in Country Living or Conde Nast. A magnificent villa in the Italian countryside with olive groves and fruit trees, picturesque hill towns with few people and Michelin starred restaurants, days spent traveling about exploring those beautifully maintained and magnificent  villages to return to the villa late afternoons in anticipation of leisurely, professionally prepared dinners. Allow me to share the experience, answer some questions the readers may have, and provide some information that might be helpful or insightful.

Umbria is known as the “Green Heart of Italy” for its many farms, forests and long history of agriculture. Our villa was in the medieval village of Piegaro, settled in 290 BC , (a few weeks before the Internet), about four miles up into the hills, with the predominate activity being centered around olive groves and olive oil production. This includes olive trees in most residences as well as large groves throughout the hill sides. The border with Tuscany and its many villages and attributes close by (20 minute drive). The hillsides are dotted with these villas and estates, many foreign owned, assuring privacy and serenity in somewhat palatial settings, and surprisingly quite affordable. Example: a three bedroom villa with all the amenities, including cleaning and pool services, can be had for about $3500-$4,000 a week: averaging $100 a night per person, less than the Holiday Inn in most American cities. Overall, my best guess is the entire vacation was about half of what it would cost in America.

Italy is one of the most popular travel destination in the world, 60 million tourists in 2023. I have been numerous times and after seeing the major city attractions (Rome, Milan, Florence and Venice) along with the Amalfi coast, Sorento and Sardinia, this and any future trips are focused on the simple and historically preserved hill towns and villages.

For me, the people, lifestyle, food and culture is both familiar and desirable. Also, one can constantly be surprised by what these small villages offer and maintain, apart from the scenic and architectural attributes. For example, there is a Michelin starred restaurant in the village of Panicale (population 5600, about a fifteen minute drive from Piegaro) called Lillo Tatini. We had dinner there one evening . Many of Italy’s smaller (and best) restaurants are family owned and run, often headed by women in many cases. The service is both professional and personal. Opening between 7-8PM the table is your’s for the night, the owners engaging in conversation, offering hints and suggestions for your vacation, sharing local, helpful knowledge. And, there is never a rush to conclude the evening. One has to ask for the check, sometimes twice, it is never brought to the table otherwise. Also, there is often a complementary treat, a sweet or digestif, after dinner.

As I said, the cost of that meal was about half of what it would cost in a comparable setting and consumption in America (it came to about $50 a head).

Another unanticipated marvel we stumbled upon was the village of Solomeo (40 minute drive). Here, the fashion designer Brunello Cucinelli acquired and restored his wife’s medieval village which had been ravaged by time and circumstances to a level of art and sophistication few would attempt (or could afford). The Robb Report (February 2015)

has an extensive article (along with others I assume). Truly magnificent is all I can say. It is now his headquarters. Altogether, we visited some 10-15 villages and three larger cities (Perugia, Arezzo and Sienna). In each and every stop we felt safe and secure; the people hospitable and accommodating , the roads in excellent condition, the country clean and appearing very prosperous. We did not witness any aberrant behavior or the homeless and sadly impaired we see in so many American cities. (The coins thrown into the Trevi Fountain in Rome support charities for the less fortunate). It seems the Italians have their act together pretty well. Obviously, this is only a small representation of the country, but I believe a reasonable assessment. For the sake of brevity, I must conclude this but do want to share a few small observations and experiences.

If there is one total contradiction to the amiability and graciousness of the Italian population it can be found in their driving habits. There is no road rage, rather a desire to get from point A to point B as quickly as possible permeates the culture. Ferrari, Lamborghini, Alfa and Ducati is in their genetics and it shows!

A second experience: a trip to the local macelleria (meat market) at 4pm (the population still takes the afternoon siesta in the small towns) the proprietor, whom we interrupted as he was about to enjoy his afternoon espresso, provides top quality veal for about ten dollars a pound and then, after a brief conversation about our visit and where we were staying, includes 4 complementary sausages. A frequent practice among merchants.

Spending the last night near the airport we did not want to travel to Rome for a parting dinner, so we opted to go to Ostia, a seaside community some 30 minutes away.

Before departing we engaged in conversation with a member of the hotel staff who resided in Fiumcino (where airport is located) and who suggested we dine there saying the restaurants were excellent and it was also seaside. We dined among the boats and waterway, an excellent choice unbeknown to us and perhaps to most who wish to avoid Rome on their last night.

The Italians (as I was told) have been in the hospitality business for several hundred years and that is why they are so good at it. They are patient and accommodating, and seem to understand that a lot of the tourists can be a bit dopey. Often characterized (in movies and literature) as impatient, we found the opposite, there is just a very accepting and agreeable response to almost every request and inquiry.

Italy is serious about recycling. Not only trash-metals-plastics, but food wastes all go in recycling bins. The roadsides were litter free, properties well cared for and the country on whole much greener than one might assume. Also, the government seems to doing a good job, as the rules, laws and compliance seem be accepted and followed by the population at large.

I do not personally post on Facebook or Instagram, other do (and did). My advice to any who want to know more or consider such a sojourn is to do your research, particularly explore the walking tours of villages and communities offered on YouTube, I’d also suggest September-October as preferred times.

Lastly, this is about 20% of what you can experience with a little planning, great traveling companions, and a little luck. Do it, life is short!